Dog Names Blog November 2007Archived pages from our Dog Names Blog November 2007 Naming Your Dog Tips: Part 2
Here's the finale to our dog naming tips article. As you can see, there's more things to be considered that just coming up with a name. It's hard to believe that over the course of your dogs lifetime, you'll use her name over 30,000 times, makes me wonder how many times my own name will be used! For more naming tips, and to find hundreds of names, click on the Permalink at the bottom of this page. Here's Part 2 of our article... Make your puppy love his name as much as you do by making sure that it has a positive association. Never scream your puppy's name at him or use it in punishment. The late dog trainer Job Michael Evans used to recommend making up a song with your dog's name in it and singing to him. Commercial jingles are wonderful for this, he said, because they're catchy and you can put the pet's name in where the product is mentioned. "You Are My Sunshine" becomes "You Are My Andy" ("you make me happy/because you're gray") and Benjamin gets regaled with the Monty Python, "Spam" song, with Ben substituted for Spam — "Ben, Ben, Ben, Ben, Ben, Ben, Ben, Ben, Wonderful Ben ..." Yes, it's silly. But try it anyway. You'll both smile. If you have a purebred dog, he'll have a registered name, too. You get 28 letters and spaces with the American Kennel Club to come up with a registered name for your pet. If you choose a name someone else has already chosen, the AKC issues it along with a number to distinguish your dog's name from the others, so unless you want your collie to be the AKC's 897,042th "Lassie," use all those spaces to come up with something sure to be unique. Permalink -- click for full blog
Naming Your Dog Tips: Part 1
When it comes to naming your dog, here's a 2 part series to help you choose the right one. You'll see there's a bit more to consider than just giving him/her just any name that comes to mind, or sounds cute. Naming a dog has to be one of the most delightful parts of getting one. It seems not a year goes by without a new book of dog names being published, including ones that specialize, such as a book on Irish names. We have no fewer than six books of names on our bookshelves, including two that were meant for the parents of human babies, not canine ones. Do you need to keep anything in mind when naming a dog? Yes. Avoid names that sound like common obedience commands. A friend of mine who had worked in Alaska adopted a beautiful husky mix and wanted to name her Sitka, after a place he'd loved visiting. After I pointed out she'd have a hard time telling the difference between "Sitka" and "sit," he named her “Bella” instead. Keep names short, one or two syllables, and easy to pronounce. I tend to use "people" names for my own pets, but you don't have to limit yourself. Name books are a good start, a dog name website, such as ours, is also an excellent place but don't forget atlases or special dictionaries such as those for foreign words or a book of baseball, railroad, gardening, or music terms, if your interests lie in any of those directions. Enough for today, check back tomorrow for part 2. If you can't wait, check out our Dog Naming Tips page by clicking our Permalink link at the bottom of this page. Permalink -- click for full blog
Clicker Training Might Be All You Need
Clicker training is an effective form of dog training should you feel that your pooch needs some help, but not enough to hire an actual trainer. Clickers are a fun and fast way to speed up your puppy's learning process. Clicker training relies on behavior shaping principles that mark desired behavior. To begin, get ten treats. Click and treat; before you are finished, your puppy will be happily alert to the sound. Now use the clicker for training and to encourage good habits. 1. House-training: When your puppy eliminates in the right area, say "get busy." Click the instant he finishes; then treat and praise warmly. 2. Jumping: When your puppy jumps, look away, Click, treat, and pet him after all four paws are on the ground. 3. Chewing: Anytime your dog is chewing an appropriate object, click, treat, and praise. You can iron out everyday frustrations with the clicker. Use it to encourage silence, to train him to ask to be let out, to create a positive association to kids, and more. Also use a clicker to teach basic commands such as the following: 1. “Sit” command: "Sit," luring your dog into position with a toy or treat if necessary. Click, reward, and praise. 2. “Down” command: "Down," luring your dog into position with a toy or treat Click, reward, and praise. 3. “Come” command: Throughout the day, command "Come" when your dog's near you. If your looking for more in depth tips on dog training, "click" here... Permalink -- click for full blog
Best Dog Names And Puppy Names For Male, Female, Boy And Girl Dogs
Find the Best Dog Names And Puppy Names with hundreds of names to choose from. Readers share their own favorites too… Permalink -- click for full blog
Dog Names Blog July 2007: Dog And Puppy Care, Breed, Training Info
Our Dog Names Blog July 2007 page has dog and puppy training, breed and care information. Permalink -- click for full blog
Dog Names Blog June 2007: Puppy And Dog Information
Our Dog Names Blog June 2007 page shares helpful dog and puppy tips and information every dog owner should know. Permalink -- click for full blog
Dog Training: 6 Commonly Used Hand Signals
When training your dog, it's helpful to know some of the most commonly known hand signals. The following is a list of 6 of the most frequently used signals... 1. “Come”: A movement across the body from the side toward the opposite shoulder. 2. “Down”: Can be done in two ways. The first way is with the arm raised to shoulder height in a striking motion if the owner is facing the dog. The second way to carry out the “Down” signal is to with the left arm down with elbow straight, wrist bent, and palm and fingers parallel to the floor if the dog is at heel position. 3. “Heel”: A forward motion of the left hand parallel to the floor to make the dog start walking at heel. It is also a swinging motion of the left hand from in front of the owner to his side to make the dog go to heel. 4. “Sit”: While facing the dog with either hand extended and palm faced upward, flip up the fingers with a quick wrist motion. 5. “Stay”: Can be done by having the arm extended downward, palm back, and held momentarily in front of the dog’s muzzle. 6. “Stand – Stay”: This is done by using the signal similar to “Stay.” Hand signals are only part of the larger dog training picture. For more in depth info on the specifics, click here... Permalink -- click for full blog
Dog Adoption: The Last Of 2 Questions
When it comes to dog adoption, there's always questions needing answers. Yesterday we touched upon the first of 2 questions that should be asked, today we share the second... "What post-adoption services do you offer?" Some shelters - especially large, well-funded ones - have the resources to offer obedience classes, behavior consulting, veterinary services, newsletters and question-and-answer sessions to their adopters. That kind of continued support can be a great help to you as you and your new dog adjust to life together. But most shelters don't have the money, space or people-power to do as much for their adopters and their former canine residents as they'd like. That doesn't mean they aren't interested. A good shelter, even if it can't afford to provide an array of amenities itself, may still offer referral services or special discounted deals with local vets and obedience schools and should always be willing to talk with adopters about whatever problems or successes they may have with their dogs. A few shelters seem to have a "once you've signed the adoption contract, you're on your own" attitude, and these are the ones you want to steer clear of. Choose a shelter that will take an interest in you and your dog now and later. Here's more on the topic of dog adoption... Permalink -- click for full blog
Dog Adoption: 2 Important Questions To Ask
If you're considering a dog adoption, this 2 part article will help steer you in the right direction with 2 important questions you should ask the shelter when visiting. Here's the first question... "How do you socialize your dogs?" Shelters don't just feed and house abandoned dogs; they socialize and rehabilitate them, too. At the best facilities, dogs are better adjusted when they leave than they were when they arrived; at the worst ones, the opposite is true. You don't want to adopt a pup who's been stuck in a cage and ignored ever since arriving at the adoption facility, since whatever behavior or attitude problems she may have had previously won't have improved - and will probably have gotten much worse - during her time at the shelter. And if she hasn't been getting enough human contact, she may have become depressed or withdrawn. So ask how many hours of human contact each shelter's dogs receive daily, how often they get to take walks or bat a ball around, how many different people spend time with them and whether they ever have the chance to play and be goofy with other dogs. Socialization is especially important if you're looking for a puppy. The early weeks of a dog's life are a crucial formative time, and a puppy who doesn't learn to interact with humans from the start may have lifelong adjustment problems ahead of her. Ask whether the shelter has any special socialization procedures for young puppies. Watch for part 2 of this blog tomorrow, and be sure to check out this full article for more on this subject... Permalink -- click for full blog
Tips On Removing Dog Hair
Tired of dog hair transferring from your dog to your furniture and clothing? Tired of vacuuming your furniture or your dogs bed with minimal improvement? Here's are 2 quick tips that from our own experience, works better than a vacuum when trying to remove hair... 1. Brush a lightly dampened sponge over your cloth couch or any other fabric that has hair on it. The light moisture on the sponge acts like a hair magnet. Make sure of course that the sponge is lightly damp and not wet. 2. A stiff bristled (not metal bristled) brush works better than a vacuum when used on cloth furniture or seat cushions. But what about those lint rollers that have sticky tape on them? They work so-so compared to the above 2 suggestions. Plus, they clog with hair/lint quite quickly making them a hassle to use. Also, before using a dampened sponge or stiff brush on any surface, test a small area to make sure neither will do any damage to the surface. Also, don't use either method on leather surfaces. Click here for more tips when dealing with a shedding dog... Permalink -- click for full blog
7 Types Of Shampoos For Your Dog
With so many different kinds of dog shampoos on the market today, it is not easy to decide which one to use. For most breeds, a basic, all-purpose shampoo is fine. But if you want your shampoo to do more than clean, you might consider a specialty shampoo. • Shampoos designed to deliver extra conditioning to long or curly coats can make post-bath grooming even easier. • Accentuate your dog's coat color by choosing a shampoo made for white, black, or red coats. • For sensitive eyes, consider a tearless shampoo. • For wire-coated dogs, look for a shampoo designed to preserve the crisp texture of your dog's coat. • Many dogs have sensitive skin or eyes. A hypoallergenic shampoo can minimize sensitivity reactions to bathing. • If your dog already has a rash, allergies, itching, or other sensitive skin conditions, look for a medicated shampoo designed to treat your dog's problem. Your vet should be able to recommend a good medicated shampoo for your dog. • For flea season, consider a shampoo containing a gentle anti-flea ingredient such as pyrethrin or limonene, or any of several natural botanicals designed to repel fleas, such as neem oil. For additional dog grooming tips for those preferring to do it themselves rather than hiring a dog groomer, check out... Permalink -- click for full blog
Reading Your Dog's Ear Movement
All positions of a dog's ears should be gauged relative to the way the dog normally carries his ears when he is relaxed. Dogs with severely cropped or very long ears will be harder to read of course. Ears erect or slightly forward: "What is that?" This is a sign of attention in response to a sound or when studying a new situation. Accompanied by a slightly tilted head and a relaxed or slightly open mouth, the meaning changes to "This is really interesting" or "I do not understand that" and is associated with observation of an event. However, when accompanied with bared teeth and wrinkled nose, it is an offensive threat by a confident dog. Ears pulled back flat against the head: "I am scared" or "I am protecting myself against a possible attack." This is usually associated with a challenge of some sort. Ears pulled slightly back: On a prick-eared dog such as a German Shepherd, the ears take on a slightly splayed, sideways spread in this position. It means "I do not like this" and "I am ready to fight or run." This is the look of suspicion and may show both aggression and ambivalence. Reading your dog's ear movement is one thing, keeping those same ears clean is another. Here's a few tips to help in that regard... Permalink -- click for full blog
Dog Food: The 3 Questions Most Asked
All dog owners should be mindful of the quality of dog food they feed their pooch. It's easy to assume that because they aren't human, that it doesn't matter...but it does. Here's the final question in this 3 question series about the topic of dog food... “I've seen both pet-store dog foods and grocery-store dog foods that brag that they are 'all natural' and 'free from added preservatives.' Is this really important or is this just marketing?” It is mostly marketing, but there is some scientific basis in feeding a food free of preservatives. However, most of these pet-food companies are playing a name game trick on you. By saying they have "no added preservatives" they are not saying there are no preservatives in the food. They don't add them, but the preservatives have already been added to the raw ingredients before being purchased by the company! Pretty tricky isn't it? Preservatives are necessary in all pet food. If they didn't have preservatives of some kind, they would spoil on the shelf in a matter of days or even hours. Many so-called "all natural" foods use vitamin E or vitamin C as a preservative. Since what you feed your pup is obviously important, it's just part of the larger overall picture when it comes to caring for your dog. To get a better idea about "the big picture" when it comes to dog care, we have a page dedicated to covering areas that you may have never thought of. Click on the Permalink below to see what we mean... Permalink -- click for full blog
Dog Food: The 3 Questions Most Asked
On day 2 of our compelling 3 day series about dog food, the following question gets answered!... Question #2 “We feed a grocery-store canned food to our dog. He has bad breath all the time. Do you think it's the food?” It could be the food, but it could also be dental tartar and gum disease caused by the exclusively soft food diet. Because he doesn't eat any type of dry food, your dog is not getting any rough form of abrasion on his teeth. The soft food may be accumulating on his teeth and the decaying food particles causing the bad odor. Try mixing a good quality dry food with just a small amount of the canned food and see if he'll eat it just as well. If so, he will be getting good nutrition and the abrasive action of crunching on dry dog food will help the bad-breath problem. In yesterdays Permalink, we highlighted our Dog Nutrition page as the place to go for more information. For those owners of puppies rather than dogs, click todays Permalink for more puppy related info. Permalink -- click for full blog
Dog Food: The 3 Questions Most Asked
When it comes to Dog Food, many owners feed their dogs anything they find available or on sale on the grocers shelf. In this 3 day series, we'll address 3 commonly asked questions pertaining to store bought dog food. Question #1 “We can't afford those expensive brands of foods at the pet store, What can we buy at the grocery store that will be Ok for our six-month-old retriever pup?” Good question! And anyone can understand how the price of the super-premium brands sold at pet stores and veterinary clinics can be out of budget, especially with a big dog. Most dogs that are very young will do well on most any brand. They are healthy and their organs are pretty resilient to nutritional insult in the short term. It is your dog's long-term health that is of concern. If right now you cannot afford one of the super-premium brands, we suggest one of the grocery store premium brands like Cycle Puppy or Alpo. These brands have all been reformulated and are much improved. They will provide your puppy excellent nutrition as long as he is healthy. As your dog gets older, try switching to a formula for older dogs. You can learn more about Dog Nutrition by clicking the permalink below, and stay tuned for question #2 coming tomorrow. Permalink -- click for full blog
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